Kumbh Mela preparation: key things you need to know!
This Maha Kumbh is happening after 144 years. Here are some of the key details for your journey prep.
It has been a long, long time since I wrote anything on Substack. And to be honest, I don’t know where the time has gone (trauma, anyone?).
But as I sit here and type this, after taking the first Amrit Snaan of the Maha Kumbh Mela, I have never felt so fired up. Fired up to live my purpose, fired up to believe in my soul above all else and all that life throws at me.
The largest spiritual gathering in the world, 400 million people - the Maha Kumbh is a once in a lifetime event and this one even more so.
Some key details to start with:
The full Kumbh Mela (Purna Kumbh) happens once every 12 years. This Maha Kumbh is the 12th of a 12 year cycle of Pure Kumbh which means it happens once every 144 years.
The Kumbh Mela has references in our ancient Vedic and Puranic scriptures, back to the times of the Samudra Manthan when Bhagwan Vishnu emerged from the churning of the ocean with the sacred Amrit nectar. Four drops of this Amrit fell in Prayagraj, Haridwar, Ujjain and Nashik. The Kumbh Mela is celebrated once every 12 years according to the cycle of Brihaspati (Jupiter), the planet of Guru, expansion and auspiciousness. Maha Kumbh Mela is only every celebrated in Prayag, where there is the Triveni Sangam of 3 rivers meeting.
Kumbh Mela is just one event when saints and sadhus who otherwise live away from society and even in the furthest reaches of the Himalayas come down for this. All the different traditional Sampradayas (sects) of Sanatan Dharma are present in Kumbh. Therefore it is important to be respectful that this is a Hindu religious festival and not a tourist gathering.
So let’s start with logistics. The most frequently asked question. I’ll be sharing the best of what I know here, but I will say that after 9 years of solo travelling - if you have a will, and trust in the universe, you will find your way. Practice personal safety, but don’t get fear hold you back.
Let’s cover some of the main FAQs.
STAY LOGISTICS
There are many stay options in Kumbh, ranging from luxury VIP tents that cost 45k+ INR a night to 30 rupees dorm bed accommodation. It depends your comfort, your needs and your preferences. Key points for stay are:
If you are concerned about the crowd especially on a major Snaan day, then it’s best to book a luxury tent accommodation which are on the side of the Sangam Triveni Ghat. Search for ‘luxury tent Prayag’ and you’ll find multiple options on Google, for as little as 10k a night going upwards. This is a good option if you want facilities - many of the resorts include VIP darshan and take you for the snaans as well so you don’t have to run through the crowd like I do.
If you want a mid range guest house option, there are several guest houses available in the main city of Prayag around the Civil Lines area, as well as on the periphery of the Kumbh Mela main area. In this you can find options below 10k a night.
And if you are looking for a super budget option, you have many dorms and stays inside the Kumbh, where you can contribute on danam basis or as little as 100 - 1500 per bed depending on the arrangements. There are also government provided facilities which you can check online.
If you are super adventurous, you can just wing it and bring your camping items (that’s how I roll in European psytrance festivals with my own tent) - and sleep in one of the large common areas which are offered by many of the Akaras but it is best to feel it out.
Be careful about bringing valuables. Many accommodations may not have lockers so plan your stay accordingly.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
If you want to come to Prayag by flight, there are obviously direct flights to the airport but you also have options to fly to places like Varanasi and Lucknow which could be considerably cheaper - and then hire a car to reach Prayag where you can come in 2-2.5 hours by road.
Once you reach inside Prayag, if you are on a main snaan day like Amrit Snaan or Mahashivratri, the roads will absolutely be jammed and you will have to find independent arrangements to come to the Sangam. There are decent chances of finding local autos or motorbikes but again, it will require some searching.
If you are coming on a normal day, even a couple of days before one of the main snaan days, it is very likely the roads will be open and you will be able to come by car all the way to the Sangam area - after which you can get a Rickshaw or make arrangements to come inside the main Kumbh area (easy to find locals to carry your bags for 300 rs etc).
SOLO FEMALE TRAVEL (AND GENERAL) SAFETY
Now, I’ve been solo female travelling across the entire world for 9 years and so safety has rarely been a concern for me. But I can understand if you are travelling solo for the first time you might have apprehensions - and indeed it is good to be cautious. I have faced some incredible challenges being a solo female traveller, it’s not all rainbows and daisies. But overall, you can expect Kumbh to be safe as long as you have discernment.
You’ll have to be super careful about your items and take care of things like theft. It’s good to chant a Kavach or Ganapathi shloka, because ultimately it is the deities who protect you.
You’ll also have to be careful when interacting with the various babas. Though there are some very genuine sadhus who you can learn from, and be inspired by; take care of random babas who might want to manipulate you for money or otherwise. Don’t be completely naive, and try to have some trustworthy local.
It’s good to make friends but just be cautious. I met some very nice people during the Amrit Snaan. Met 3-4 friends from my own Santan Dharma group, some babas I had met in Ambubachi Mela, it is a great community. Which I am grateful for. Just be cautious and have spiritual self protection.
FOOD ARRANGEMENTS
There is consistent Annadanam throughout Kumbh where not thousands, but millions of people are fed for free every day. So you will definitely get free food like puri shaak, daal chawal etc easily in the main Kumbh area.
SPIRITUAL DISCOURSES AND AKHARAS
There are many Pandals of saints, sampradayas of Sanatan Dharma throughout the Kumbh Mela. For example, all the four Shankaracharyas. Many saints from across India who are truly amazing. You also have Akharas of the various Sanyasis and Naga Sadhus which you can visit, such as the Juna Akhara and Nath Sampradaya. Neem Karoli Baba and other major Gurus are also there. You can also see the large organisation pandals like YSS, Iskon and Ramakrishna Mission which were formed in recent times and also have Annadanam Sewa.
Be sure to visit a diversity of Pandals; don’t get stuck in one area just because it’s a known organisation or you’re part of it. This the SINGLE BIGGEST OPPORTUNITY that you have to explore the breadth that Sanatan Dharma traditions has to offer. So explore, engage, discern and enjoy!
Keep lots of 10 / 20 / 100 rupees notes handy so you can give this out to the babas and give in the Pandals too.
You may have already seen by now videos of the Naga Sadhus, some of them hitting the news reporters with their havan tongs. Lol. Remember that we have been sold a very diluted view of spirituality that monks are meant to have some perfect exterior of peace and never be angry. These Sadhus are warriors, they have defended against Mughals for over 1000 years. It’s very important to be respectful and never attempt to make fun of them, they will hit you. Be respectful and there is no problem.
BATHING IN THE SANGAM
On a normal day it is perfectly fine to bathe in the Sangam. Try to go early like 4am so that you can catch the snaan before the massive crowds come. There will be crowd but it won’t be to the level that was there during the Amrit Snaan.
During the Amrit Snaan, the crowd is extremely huge at the Sangam - though there is great crowd management by the police, I had to jump through multiple gates, ran on my own intuition, had some help with locals and then reached the place where the Sadhus would take the snaan without every having gone there before! So yes, you will need to be prepared if you want to take Snaan during one of the main days. You can also visit the Juna Akhada and make friends with the Sadhus and see if you can march behind them.
Apart from the main Sangam area you can bathe anywhere in the Prayagraj area in the Ganga on either side, so you will still get the benefit.
Once you bathe, you will have to change there itself. Though there are some facilities for women to change their clothes, I change then and there by covering myself with a towel. It’s a good skill to pick up and in general people are very helpful. When I was changing one Sadhu was standing there with his flag and gave me two saffron cloths to cover myself, without asking. If you are really concerned about changing in the open then keep at least one person with you to hold the towel, or even just buy a portable changing unit on Amazon but to be honest I wouldn’t invest in that plastic waste.
As for lockers, if you are alone - it’s a gamble, you can keep your bags on the banks or find someone trustworthy looking to give your bags and phone to when you take the snaan. That’s what I did but remember that I have a very different frequency of operating as compared to the normal world. You too can manifest, that’s what I teach in my workshops - but just be careful if you are new to this. Otherwise, team up with at least one person so they can hold your stuff when you take the bath and you can then take it in peace.
So this is all for now folks! I hope this helps you plan the best trip. If you have more questions, post them below.
I am also inviting you to contribute to Kumbh Mela’s FIRST organic Annadanam stall: where I am serving free Annadanam to devotees with only organic rice and lentils, pure A2 desi ghee and the purest ingredients.
Details to contribute to my Annadanam initiative are on my Instagram: @/iamkamyabuch. Please contact me there to make your contribution! Or check all the pages here. Every support is needed.
Har Har Mahadev!